Arrivals+Departures > Read the magazine > Writing the wrong of living large
Writing the wrong of living large
by Michael Krape
I came to Bali to write a story.
Little did I know that Bali was waiting to
rewrite mine.
The trick is to remain detached, even superior. After all, a beautiful valley is a beautiful valley, just as opaque skies and turquoise waters are the same everywhere.
Occasionally we fail to take our own advice. This was true for me in Bali. On a recent visit I stayed on the outskirts of Ubud, one of the most engaging and spiritual places on the Island of the Gods. Over the centuries, Ubud has remained true to its princely status. Whereas Kuta is the centre of gravity for the ubër cool, Ubud is the wellspring of art and culture. No longer a haven for backpackers, artists and cosmic seekers, it has become more gentrified with broader appeal to the literati, art collectors and connoisseurs of every hue. It is also home to an annual writers’ festival rated as one of the top six in the world by Harper’s Bazaar (see separate story). I was invited to Como Shambhala Estate, a 15 minute drive from the centre of Ubud and located high above a jungle-covered riverbank. Occasionally you can hear the faint cries of fear and delight of white-water rafters in the furious Ayung River below. By contrast, Como Shambhala is gentle elegance writ large.
Set on nine hectares along a sloping ridge that straddles terraced rice fields and jungle tipped valleys, there is a range of beautifully presented villas and suites catering for around 70 people.
No two are alike in keeping with the ethos that underpins the Estate.
A phone call will bring a personal butler to your door or your private pool, should you venture beyond the hand-carved furniture, Chinese antiques, Sumban stone baths and the Alang-Alang thatched roof.
It is one of Bali’s most famous health and wellness retreats, on an island that arguably has more of these per capita than anywhere else. Unlike most others that offer pampering alongside the trappings of a conventional destination, Como Shambhala creates a bespoke program for each guest covering every aspect of their stay. In effect, a guest enters his or her own destination.
The starting point is a consultation with Dr Deepak Deginal, the resident Indian-trained Ayurvedic doctor, yoga therapist and osteopath. Dr Deginal will tailor a program to suit your unique profile and your length of stay. The program might include yoga, massage, stress management and detoxification, weight loss, physical activities including guided treks on ancient tracks that skirt temples and local villages, aqua therapy, and even food.
It is not unusual for the kitchen brigade to be pressed into service to create individual meals. We are not talking cafeteria fare, either. Foodservice is under the direction of Australian-born Executive Chef, Chris Miller, a veteran of Neil Perry’s Rockpool. I consulted with Dr Deginal and, in the spirit of adventure expected of a travel writer, agreed to undergo a cleanse. It sounded spiritual, even enlightening. My infatuation with all things alternative was about to launch me into unchartered waters. D(etox)-Day was to begin at 6am the next morning.
I shunned food with the discipline of a yogi. I stared destiny in the eye and dutifully took my medicine in anticipation of a day of rest. I borrowed DVDs, dusted off the dust jacket of a long-anticipated book and settled in...
Who would have thought that two small, almost microscopic pills would create an internal revolution to rival the 1994 ALP National Conference? For the next 12 hours I stayed glued (literally) to the toilet. The late founder of The Body Shop, Anita Roddick, famously said if you think you are too small to make an impact, try going to bed with a mosquito. Those pills were the equivalent of Japanese mini subs in Sydney Harbour. The longer the day wore on, the less enamoured I became with travel writing. I abandoned the golden rule that says it is better to interview the devotee of colonic irrigation than to follow in his footsteps. Such breaches can get messy.
The following day dawned as it always does, and I emerged refreshed if chastened by the experience. In one respect I lost a day of indulgence, but in all others I gained new insights into the consequences of profligate living. The story I fashioned for myself was flushed away in an instant. I was about to begin a new chapter.
Fact File
Staying there: A four night package at Como Shambhala Estate including return economy airfares with Garuda Indonesia, breakfast and afternoon tea daily, the services of a personal butler and complimentary return airport transfers from $1,687 ex Perth, $1,953 ex Melbourne and $1,969 ex Sydney.
Prices are per person and include Australian taxes and charges. Conditions apply. Upgrade to Executive Class from an additional $592 per person return.
Further information 1300 365 331 or visit www.balionanybudget.com.au